The 2000 Barolo Costa Grimaldi has developed beautifully in bottle. Truffles, autumn leaves, spices, leather and licorice are some of the notes that take shape in the glass. There is more than enough fruit and structure to ensure another 8-10 years of very fine drinking. Floral notes reappear on the finish, adding freshness and lift. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. Einaudi’s 2000 Baroli have held up well. The estate’s winemaking philosophy was a bit different this period. Fermentation and maceration lasted 15 days, quite a bit less than is the norm these days. The wines saw 70% new oak, the first year in barrique, the second in cask.

Measured use of barrique (20%) means this wine retains all of its essential Barolo-ness. It’s taut and a little hard-edged in its youth, with aromas and flavors of sour cherry, leather, citrus and just hints of flowers and underbrush. Should develop well in time; try in 2010 or later. ——J.C.(11/15/2004)—— 88