The 1999 Barolo Costa Grimaldi, one of the two single-vineyard selections, a classic medium garnet in color, possesses all the typical fragrance of fine Nebbiolo, the rose petals, the balsamic notes, and the anisette. Ample, well concentrated, and of good depth, its solid flavors and round tannins indicate that the wine will evolve well until 2018. Einaudi was founded by one of Italy’s major twentieth century statesmen, a highly considered economist by training and later president of the Italian republic. The wines, well made and characterful, deserve to be better known. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Despite this wine’s ample weight, it retains a remarkable sense of elegance and complexity, blending minor amounts of toast and vanilla with dried cherries, cinnamon, citrus peel, licorice and dates. The tannins are well rounded and supple, the finish long. Drink now–2020. ——W.E.(4/2/2004)—— 91