The 2004 Barolo Costa Grimaldi is a promising wine. This sweet, generous wine is endowed with an attractive plumpness to its fruit, with well-integrated oak and soft tannins that caress the palate through to the long finish. It offers superb balance, poise and harmony. Costa Grimaldi is made from the best parcels in Via Nuova vineyard in Barolo. The wine had been moved into steel tank from oak a few weeks before my visit. 2009-2022. Consulting oenologist Beppe Caviola has been instrumental in ratcheting up the quality at this historic property. I can't think of too many estates that have made such significant strides in just the last few years. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Classically lined, a good blend of fruit sweetness and austerity, serious and sophisticated, long, and long minerals too.

Costa Grimaldi tastes fruity and tart and offers mature notes of raspberry and strawberry over subtle shadings of spice, licorice and root beer. It’s definitely a riper expression of Barolo and therefore not as layered or complex as other wines from this vintage. That said, it’s a fine wine with super-firm tannins and bright cherry flavors.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 88