The 2008 The Evil Twin is composed of 65% Syrah and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 100% new French oak. Notes of spicy blue and black fruits, pain grille, graphite, violets, and underbrush inform the nose of an intense, concentrated, layered, opulent offering that can be approached now but has the stuffing to evolve for several more years. It will be at its best from 2012 to 2020. Gorman Winery, owned, operated, and staffed entirely by Chris Gorman, began in 2002 and currently produces 3000 cases out of a Woodinville warehouse. The new releases are uniformly outstanding. They include one dry and one dessert-styled white wine. Tel. (206) 351-0719; www.gormanwinery.com

This is beautifully aromatic and assertively tannic, with monster fruit that overtakes the 100% new oak and shows no hint of heat from the 15.5% alcohol. It’s big, yet graceful, with veins of smoke and rock wrapped around the dense cassis and berry fruit. Young as it is, this has immense concentration and depth.——P.G.(12/31/2010)—— 94