The 2005 Syrah (75%)-Cabernet Sauvignon (25%) The Evil Twin was barrel-fermented and aged in 100% new French oak. Opaque purple-colored, it exhibits a fragrant perfume of pain grille, pencil lead, spice box, black currants, and blueberry. Layered, with gobs of flavor, this large-scaled wine is able to remain light on its feet. It will evolve for 4-6 years and be at its best from 2012 to 2025. Chris Gorman, whose first commercial vintage was 2002, currently produces 1600 cases out of a Woodinville warehouse. He is a colleague of Mark Ryan McNeilly and a similar philosophy seems to be reflected in the wines. Tel. (206) 351-0719; www.gormanwinery.com

This Syrah/Cabernet blend, from Red Mountain grapes, is what winemaker Chris Gorman calls his reserve. He pulls out all the stops, picking his Syrah at 30 brix, using 100% new oak and finishing the wine at a hefty 15.5% alcohol. The predictable result is plenty big, slightly raisiny, with a hot finish.——P.G.(3/1/2008)—— 90