Owner/winemaker Chris Gorman produces 600-700 cases of full-throttle wines from some of Washington’s top vineyards. The 2004 The Evil Twin is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Syrah aged 21 months in 100% new French oak. Opaque purple, it has an expressive bouquet of smoke, grilled meat, Asian spices, black currants, and blueberry. The wine is fat on the palate but without much concentration or grip. The flavors are attractive but short on complexity. Drink it over the next 4-6 years. Tel. (206) 351-0719; www.gormanwinery.com

Late-picked Red Mountain Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon are here combined into an exceptionally ripe, round and rich red wine. The tannins are ripe and smooth, the fruit tilts slightly into the pruny side, and the finish coats the tongue with chalk, tannin and pencil lead. Just 95 cases were produced.——P.G.(12/31/2006)—— 94