The 2006 Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette needs at least 5-7 more years of cellaring. Its dense purple color is accompanied by notes of pen ink, graphite, creme de cassis, licorice, and scorched earth. Full-bodied and deep, with good acidity, superb concentration and purity as well as high tannins, this excellent Hermitage should be at its best between 2015-2035. In the late 1990s, as the quality of one of the northern Rhone’s most well-known negociant firms, Paul Jaboulet-Aine, was beginning to decline, the quality of Delas Freres was soaring, and they are now one of the three top negociant firms in the Rhone Valley. Delas Freres has been the property of Champagne Deutz since 1996, and belongs to the same owners as Champagne Louis Roederer. The owners as well as the Directeur Technique, the brilliant Jacques Grange, and winemaker Jean-Francois Farinet deserve credit for the rise in quality at this operation. The Delas Freres wines continue to go from strength to strength, and while I believe the Jaboulet wines will return to form under the new ownership, Delas Freres is already there. The current portfolio includes strong 2006s and very good 2007s. As long-time readers know, there is a hierarchy to the Delas wines from Crozes-Hermitage, St.-Joseph, Hermitage, and Cote Rotie. The finest values come from Crozes-Hermitage (especially their lower level cuvees, Les Launes and Domaine des Grands Chemins), and from St.-Joseph (Les Challeys). The quality jumps dramatically with the Crozes-Hermitage Le Clos, St.-Joseph Francois de Tournon, and the luxury cuvee, the St.-Joseph Ste.-Epine. In top vintages, there are two offerings from Cote Rotie, the single vineyard La Landonne and the Seigneur de Maugiron. Both cuvees were produced in 2006, but only the Seigneur de Maugiron was made in 2007 (because of the hail storm that destroyed a large percentage of the crop in Cote Rotie). Delas Freres owns 25 acres in Hermitage, from which they produce two cuvees, with Les Bessards only made in the top vintages.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

The 2006 Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette appears to have turned the corner and has shed its cloak of tannin and acidity. It's charming, medium to full-bodied, nicely concentrated and textured today, with classic olive, cured meats, black fruits and a hint of graphite. It has a classic, balanced, even elegant style and will continue drinking beautifully for at least another decade.

Silky and alluring, with lovely mocha and espresso aromatics followed by lush black cherry, fig paste and crushed currant notes. Fleshy and pure on the finish, with solid underlying minerality. Drink now through 2017. 2,145 cases made. -JM