Showing similar to last year, the 2003 Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette is a beautiful Hermitage that offers classic currants and plum nuances to go with spice, chocolate, wood smoke and charcoal on the nose. Harvested August 19-29 (harvest here normally stretches into October if that gives you any inclination of the vintage), it's full-bodied, rich, textured and balanced, with solid purity of fruit and sweet tannin. Drink it anytime over the coming 10-15 years.

Produced from a crop size that was 60% less than normal, the 2003 Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette exhibits an inky/ruby/purple color as well as scents of charcoal, licorice, creme de cassis, and crushed rocks. It is full-bodied, powerfully tannic, and rich with marvelous purity and length, and a surprisingly low 13.5% alcohol. It should drink well for 20+ years. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Fresh and racy, with lots of red currant and raspberry fruit backed by a strong, minerally spine. Darker toast, spice and fruit notes emerge on the finish, but this stays remarkably fresh and open throughout. Deftly done. Drink now through 2020. 1,065 cases made. -JM

Young and intense on the nose, where dried black-currant aromas pick up hints of chocolate and espresso. This is full-throttle ripe, with lush fruit, great body, soft tannins and good length on the finish. Drinkable now, but should develop more nuance in another 5 years and last at least until 2015.——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 91