In stark contrast to the evolved, tired '00, the still inky ruby-colored 1999 Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette was still lively and fresh, with classic dark fruits, tobacco leaf, cured meats and chocolate aromas and flavors giving way to a full-bodied, fleshy, textured Hermitage that has sweet tannin and nicely integrated acidity. Aged in equal parts new and once-used barrels, drink it anytime over the coming decade.