From tiny yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare, the 2004 Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette has a dense ruby/purple color, a big, sweet nose of forest floor, acacia flowers, creme de cassis, and pepper. It is deep, full-bodied, with beautiful fruit intensity, a lush texture in the mid-palate, but then the tannic structure takes over. This is an undeniable success for the vintage. It should drink well for 15 or more years. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000