The elegantly-styled 2006 Viognier reveals peach and apricot fruit notes along with crushed rocks, excellent texture, and a medium-bodied, surprisingly crisp personality. It should drink nicely for 1-2 years. Previously recommended: 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (93+), 2003 Merlot Vintner’s Select Mountain Top Vyd. (91). Tel. (707) 963-4949; Fax (707) 963-6039

The gigantic flavors are there, showing the exotic, flamboyant side of Viognier. Peach, pineapple, kiwi, Key lime pie, honeysuckle blossom, roasted almond, smoky new oak and Asian spices lead to a dry, honeyed finish. There’s an edgy awkwardness, though, that limits elegance. Might simply be too young. Best after mid-2008.——S.H.(2/1/2008)—— 87