The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les St. Georges comes across as quite open at this stage, surprisingly so, to be frank. I imagine the wine will begin to close down, but it has not happened yet. An expressive bouquet laced with sweet red cherries, flowers, spices and tar melds into layers of deep, beautifully articulated fruit. The St. Georges shows gorgeous depth and pure delineation on the energetic, expressive finish. It is a dazzling wine, although I have a slight preference for the 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. My tasting with Denis and Bertrand Chevillon was one of the highlights of my most recent trip to Burgundy. The domaine’s 2009s are flat-out beautiful. Readers will not want to miss these gems. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524