The 2004 Chardonnay Damaris Reserve (79% from the Sangiacomo Vineyard and 21% from the Frostwatch Vineyard) displays a light straw color with a greenish hue. The fruit component includes more ripe pineapple as well as a touch of honeysuckle. There is a judicious hint of oak, crisp underlying acidity, and more minerality in the more fruit-driven Overlook. It is a lovely, medium to full-bodied white to drink over the next 3-4 years. Tel. (707) 833-0212; Fax (707) 833-1164

Damaris is a wine whose sourcing keeps shifting, from Bien Nacido to Sonoma County. Now it’s Sonoma Valley. The wine is dominated by oak, all vanilla and char, but isn’t very interesting down below. The flavors are citrusy, just not big enough for a wine with this famous a name. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 83