Choppin de Janvry elected to present his 2007 Savigny-les-Beaune La Batailliere aux Vergelesses after his Beaune premier crus, and it is by some measures his strongest wine, having been picked last and with 13.5% natural alcohol. It also, incidentally, introduces a new phase in labeling for a wine that was for decades "Vergelesses Clos la Batailliere" until authorities ruled that it was not really (or at least, no longer) walled-in, and then became "Vergelesses La Batailliere." By whatever name, the 2006 is distinguished by tart blackberry and mulberry; charred meat; firm, slightly abrasive tannins; and deep stoniness, all of which combine for a finish whose grip slightly exceeds its charm. This impressively dense Pinot would be worth returning to in the course of 2010 and may well merit several years' cellaring thereafter. After waiting to harvest until only the last four or five days of September, Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry reports having done a rigorous sorting and ultimately assembling his 2006s earlier than usual – in February, with bottling a month later – in order to preserve fruit. Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832 9083

A dark, black-fruited style of wine, toughened by tannins, but showing good black plum juice flavors. There is a sinewy edge here that promises some aging. Allied to the sweet acidity, this is a complex, flavorsome wine.——R.V.(10/1/2009)—— 89