"There are just three and a half barrels of the 2013 Savigny lès Beaune les Grand Liards instead of the usual twelve," Patrick lamented. Still, it has a lovely raspberry bouquet that blossoms in the glass. The palate is light on the entry with good acidity, a little rustic perhaps, and it just loses a little depth toward the finish. At the moment, I prefer the Pernand-Vergelesses.

The 2012 Savigny-les-Beaune Les Grands Liards was tasted from vat and comes from their 45- and 10-year-old vines (0.54-hectares). It has an uncomplicated briary-scented nose that unfolds nicely with encouragement in the glass. The palate is crisp and light with straightforward, chewy red fruit and a light grip on the white pepper-tinged finish. Patrick Javillier was busy down in his Meursault winery when I called in at the property that was established by Raymond Javillier after the war, when he set about acquiring parcels of vine around the village. Yet the main focus of the business was in purchasing fruit from courtiers. Patrick himself vinified his first wine in 1974 after completing his winemaking diploma at the University of Burgundy and steadily built up a raft of long-term contracts, tending holdings through fermage agreements. Since 2008, his daughter Marion has looked after and vinified the red wines and it was clear that Patrick takes a great deal of pride in them. I have been following Javillier’s wines for a number of years now. Here is a man determined to transcend the limitations of possessing propitious terroirs, but few premier and grand cru vines. How does he overcome them? Well, simply by straightforward winemaking tenets: complete de-stemming for the reds, remaining faithful to his trusty old Vaslin press (which was recuperating in the corner after the vintage), skillful use of new oak and by assiduously blending small parcels whose final wine is often more than a sum of its parts. Patrick told me that he commenced picking on September 12 with potential alcohol levels coming in between 12.0 and 12.9 degrees. These wines often represent outstanding value and we commence with his two generic whites that offer outstanding value year after year. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 01 33 1 42 55 42 93