The 1990 Barolo Bricco Luciani is one of the most approachable and food-friendly wines of this tasting. I paired this bottle with baked garden zucchini stuffed with minced veal and chopped mint. You definitely feel the magic of its long cellar evolution, and the wine has enough acidity and general freshness of fruit to keep it in the game. I also enjoyed its earthy tones of dried terracotta and truffle that contrast so nicely against more delicate tones of blue flower and cola. Distant whiffs of oak spice also come into play, especially as the wine takes on oxygen in the glass. That said, I did find that some of its vibrancy started to fade three to four hours after I decanted the bottle. It’s delicious but short-lived. Drink: 2014-2020.