The 2018 Volnay Vendanges Sélectionées is a stunning communal bottling in the making, wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis, cherries, sweet soil tones, raw cocoa and candied citrus peel. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with powdery tannins, lively acids and a long, mineral finish. This will be well worth seeking out.