The 1993 Volnay "Vendanges Sélectionées" is at the peak of its powers, wafting from the glass with a pristine bouquet of sweet red-black fruits, dark chocolate, candied peel, game bird and raw cocoa. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with a rich, gourmand attack that's underpinned by a bright line of acidity that lends the wine fabulous energy and delineation. This is compelling testimony, if any were needed, to how well Lafarge's wines respond to extended cellaring.