Issuing from the same manifestly well-situated four parcels that usually inform this cuvee, the Lafarge 2006 Volnay Vendanges Selectionnees is bright enough to wake you up, its ripe cherry and blackberry preserving a tart edge, and its spice running pungently to cinnamon and fresh ginger. High-toned kirsch, candied lime peel, and marzipan waft throughout; persistent chalkiness places a floor under the flavors, accentuating a sense of palpably high extract; and this finishes with similar invigoration and dynamics to the corresponding village Volnay. One could easily relish this as a "little Clos des Chenes" over the next 6-8 years and it makes a striking contrast to the firmer – no better, and far less charming – 2005. Frederic and Michel Lafarge are consistently adept in challenging vintages, and succeeded admirably in 2006, harvesting from September 20 until the end of that month. To hear them tell (as well as to taste the results) their fruit was largely healthy, and sorting was principally to remove under-ripe berries and clusters. Not surprisingly, they chalk this up to vine management. "Biodynamic treatments permit the vine to overcome the stress of weather extremes," such as characterized 2006, asserts Frederic Lafarge. Michel Lafarge points out that the same – to his mind ideal – 12.5-13+% potential alcohol was reached over the same period in premier cru and non-cru sites alike, a phenomenon due in part, he believes, to his estate's high average age of vine. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70