The 2015 Volnay "Vendanges Sélectionées" comes from terroir that Frédéric deems not premier cru, but can create what he sees as a "vin de garde"—a wine for ageing. The nose is actually more backward than the village cru at the moment and demanded quite a bit of coaxing from the glass. The palate is where the difference lies, as there is a touch more tension and energy here, especially on the tart red cherry and strawberry finish that lingers long in the mouth. It needs to knit together by the time of bottling, but there is certainly substance and density to this Volnay that should achieve its raison d'être.