The 2009 Volnay Vendanges Selectionnees is a selection of village-level parcels. This is a decidedly centered style of Volnay built on a solid core of fruit. It possesses plenty of mid-palate juiciness, while the fruit has enough sheer density to match the tannins on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2029. This is a stunning set of wines from Michel Lafarge. The estate farms biodynamically. The wines were left on their gross lees through the malos, which ended in April-May. Lafarge did one racking, in August, 2010, when he moved the wine off their gross lees, leaving just the fine lees. I tasted the 2009s from barrel. Lafarge planned to bottle later in Spring 2011 with no fining or filtration, as is his usual custom. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640