Readers cannot ask for a more hedonistic, flavorful, mouth-filling, juicy wine than this effort from Mas des Bressades, an estate that consistently makes the pages of my Best Buy reports. Picked very late (mid-October), the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon/ Syrah achieved nearly 14% natural alcohol. It reveals a textbook cedary, cigar box, black currant, and garrigue-scented nose, ripe, rich, mineral-like fruit flavors, medium to full body, and sweet tannin. It is a complex, impressively-endowed wine that should drink well for 3-4 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083