The 2004 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe comes across as decidedly powerful and broad-shouldered next to the Vignolo. A wall of massive tannins makes it hard to see through to the wine’s potential but with air the multiple dimensions of its personality begin to open up. Dark fruit, tar, mint, pine and a host of other spiced, balsamic aromas and flavors make an appearance on the large-scaled, dramatic finish. The 2004 San Giuseppe is an utterly mind-blowing, dramatic Barolo from Cavallotto. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034.
Cavallotto has been on a tear of late. This year I tasted a number of exceptional wines from this small, family-run property. In particular, readers should keep an eye out for the estate’s 2005s. Late flowering that year reduced the crop by nearly 50% and resulted in a set of huge, powerful wines that are atypical for the vintage and that should age exquisitely over the coming years.
A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; tel. (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; tel. (630) 422-1119
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