The 1989 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis San Giuseppe is utterly compelling. Dark fruit, spices, soy and minerals are some of the nuances that emerge from this beautifully delineated, powerful Barolo. The wine possesses superb harmony in an expression of fruit that continues to blossom on the palate. As is often the case, in 1989 the San Giuseppe is fresher than the Vignolo, and it should continue to offer splendid drinking for another decade or so. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.
Cavallotto is experiencing a much-deserved resurgence in popularity, but the truth is that the wines have been outstanding for many years. The estate has recently re-released a number of their older vintages at prices that are exceedingly fair considering the quality and provenance of the wines. Cavallotto works with two vineyards, both in Castiglione Falletto, for their Riservas. Vignolo generally yields perfumed, elegant, feminine Barolos, while the San Giuseppe parcel in the family’s near-monopole Bricco Boschis typically produces a firmer, darker and sturdier Barolo. Vinification and aging are traditional; in fact Cavallotto is among the last producers to bottle and release their Barolos. Readers curious to learn more about other vintages may want to check out my notes on www.erobertparker.com