Cavallotto’s 1990 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis San Giuseppe, a wine I have tasted on a number of occasions has either developed at an accelerated pace over the last few years or I have simply been unlucky with my last bottles. Two recent bottles of the 1990 San Giuseppe have been fully mature with tertiary notes of beef bouillon, tobacco, cedar and dried plums. Anticipated maturity: 2010.
Cavallotto is experiencing a much-deserved resurgence in popularity, but the truth is that the wines have been outstanding for many years. The estate has recently re-released a number of their older vintages at prices that are exceedingly fair considering the quality and provenance of the wines. Cavallotto works with two vineyards, both in Castiglione Falletto, for their Riservas. Vignolo generally yields perfumed, elegant, feminine Barolos, while the San Giuseppe parcel in the family’s near-monopole Bricco Boschis typically produces a firmer, darker and sturdier Barolo. Vinification and aging are traditional; in fact Cavallotto is among the last producers to bottle and release their Barolos. Readers curious to learn more about other vintages may want to check out my notes on www.erobertparker.com
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