This was the first Talley Chardonnay in the tasting that did not merit an outstanding score. By itself, it may have received a slightly higher rating, but coming right after the truly majestic 2005 and the quartet of remarkable wines made between 2006 and 2009, the 2004 seemed slightly more restrained and modest with a more monolithic character. Part of it could be that it is still so young, tasting like a two-year old Chardonnay rather than one that is seven years of age. Abundant notes of lemon zest, orange peel, quince and white currants are present in this fruity effort along with youthful acidity. However, it seems to be holding much of its personality in reserve. This 2004 will be interesting to follow and I suspect it will age well.

This was the first Talley Chardonnay in the tasting that did not merit an outstanding score. By itself, it may have received a slightly higher rating, but coming right after the truly majestic 2005 and the quartet of remarkable wines made between 2006 and 2009, the 2004 seemed slightly more restrained and modest with a more monolithic character. Part of it could be that it is still so young, tasting like a two-year old Chardonnay rather than one that is seven years of age. Abundant notes of lemon zest, orange peel, quince and white currants are present in this fruity effort along with youthful acidity. However, it seems to be holding much of its personality in reserve. This 2004 will be interesting to follow and I suspect it will age well.

This year’s Rosemary’s is dry, crisp in citrusy acids, and wonderfully complex. It shows fresh, sweet pineapple fruit and spicy overtones of cinnamon and nutmeg along with layers of minerals and dried herbs. Easily takes its place in the front ranks of California Chardonnay. ——S.H.(12/1/2006)—— 95