Doniene Gorrondona Txakolina Tinto, Bizkaiko Txakolina, Spain

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The 2013 Gorrondona Tinto is a rarity, a red Txakoli produced exclusively with the red local grape Hondarrabi Beltza that fermented with indigenous yeast and went through malolactic in vat. It has an herbal nose, not unlike other Atlantic reds from southwest France or the Loire, a bit wild with some chili pepper and floral notes. It has certain elegance, with fine grained tannins. A red for blue fish? Drink now-2016. Doniene Gorrondona is one of the leading producers in the Bizkaiako Txakolina appellation. It’s a winery created in 1996 by four friends who wanted to recover the Txakoli tradition in a farmhouse in Bakio. They now own 15 hectares of vineyards. These are some of the best Txakolis around, full stop. Importer: De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC; tel. (919) 933-4245; www.demaisonselections.com

A rare red Txakoli, the 2009 Gorrondona Tinto is made from 150-year-old pre-phylloxera Hondarribi Beltza vines. It was fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel. Cherry red in color, it offers up a carbonic-like, red fruit nose of red currants, cranberry, and raspberry. Light-bodied, crisp, and refreshing, it will drink well over the next 2-3 years. Importer: Andre Tamers, De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC; www.demaisonselections.com

The 2007 Gorrondona Tinto Txakolina is 100% Hondarribi Beltza fermented in stainless steel. Purple-colored, it has a fragrant bouquet of earth, mineral, and red fruits reminiscent of a cross of Gamay and Cabernet Franc. Dry on the palate with vibrant acidity, it offers considerable complexity en route to a lengthy finish. Drink this unique effort over the next five years. The DO of Bizkaiko Txakolina is centered on the major Basque city of Bilbao. Importer: Andre Tamers, De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC; www.demaisonselections.com