The 2013 Doniene is a selection from their oldest vineyards (up to 20 years of age) of the local white Hondarrabi Zuri grape fermented with indigenous yeasts. An austere, sharp, serious, focused, pure, delineated, clean and mineral Txakoli, it is a soil-driven rather than fruit-driven wine. This is a superb, serious Txakoli that should age well. Drink now-2015. Doniene Gorrondona is one of the leading producers in the Bizkaiako Txakolina appellation. It’s a winery created in 1996 by four friends who wanted to recover the Txakoli tradition in a farmhouse in Bakio. They now own 15 hectares of vineyards. These are some of the best Txakolis around, full stop. Importer: De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC; tel. (919) 933-4245; www.demaisonselections.com

The 2005 Doniene Blanco, made from 100% Hondarribi Zuri and fermented in stainless steel, is medium straw in color. It offers up fruity lemon/lime and mineral notes in the nose, a medium-bodied, round impression on the palate, and good crispness in the finish. Like most of the top whites from Basque country, this wine would be a terrific accompaniment to shellfish. Importer: De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC; tel. (919) 933-4245