The 2013 Gorrondona Tinto is a rarity, a red Txakoli produced exclusively with the red local grape Hondarrabi Beltza that fermented with indigenous yeast and went through malolactic in vat. It has an herbal nose, not unlike other Atlantic reds from southwest France or the Loire, a bit wild with some chili pepper and floral notes. It has certain elegance, with fine grained tannins. A red for blue fish? Drink now-2016. Doniene Gorrondona is one of the leading producers in the Bizkaiako Txakolina appellation. It’s a winery created in 1996 by four friends who wanted to recover the Txakoli tradition in a farmhouse in Bakio. They now own 15 hectares of vineyards. These are some of the best Txakolis around, full stop. Importer: De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC; tel. (919) 933-4245; www.demaisonselections.com