I tasted up to four different vintages of the number 7 wine, a wine they have produced since 2003, to show the aging potential of the zone. The newest of them all, the 2018 7 comes from a more heterogeneous year. Since 2009, this has been produced selecting plots of higher ripeness from different vineyards, and the the wine is kept with lees for six to nine months. In 2018, it's 41% Hondarrabi Zuri, 40% Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia and 19% Riesling and reached 13.8% alcohol with a very low pH of 2.98 and high-ish acidity. The local varieties are quite shy aromatically, so the nose, at least at this early stage of its life, is quite dominated by the Riesling, with a floral and flinty combination that I like. Yes, it is also somewhat reductive, very young, in need of some time in bottle. It's a powerful but balanced white wine, with mineral austerity and a long, dry finish. 55,399 bottles and 2,132 magnums produced. It was bottled in July 2019.

2017 was a challenging but more Atlantic vintage, and the 2017 7 has less alcohol than any of the other three vintages I tasted from this cuvée that they produce with the intention to give it a long life in bottle. The 2017 is a blend of 42% Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia, 38% Hondarrabi Zuri and 20% Riesling. It fermented in stainless steel and matured with the lees for six to nine months, depending on the lot, and despite being less ripe, the wine is still 13.27% alcohol and keeps the acidity and freshness. The austere stony sensations are now dominating the nose, reminiscent of wet stones and chalk, perhaps with a shy balsamic, bay leaf-like touch or a hint of fennel. The palate is tasty and full, with a notable finish where the dry sensations intermixed with a pleasant bitter twist make it long and tasty, almost salty. It should develop nicely in bottle. 42,350 bottles produced. It was bottled in September 2018.

A high-ripeness cuvée that changes in composition each year and is selected from a number of vineyards, but all from slopes, the 2016 7 was produced with 45% Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia (Petit Corbu), 37% Hondarrabi Zuri and 18% Riesling. 2016 was a very good vintage for them. The wine has aged nicely; I tasted it from a magnum, and that surely slowed the development down. There are shy diesel-like hints and notes of bay leaf and balsam, chalk and fennel. The palate is tasty, dry and serious, with a chalky texture and a dry, long finish. 50,000 bottles and 2,576 magnums produced. It was bottled in August 2017.

They are convinced that 2015 is one of their best vintages, a quality perhaps replicated in 2019, but it's still early to say. The 2015 7 is 45% Hondarrabi Zuri, 39% Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratie and 16% Riesling. This showed the finest development of all the older vintages I tried, with a clear kerosene hint, a flinty sensation and notions of herbs and fennel. The palate is complete and seamless, dry and balanced, the alcohol and sugar unnoticeable, with focused and clean flavors that feature on the finish. I also tasted this from a magnum that surely can keep it up for another five years. 39,500 bottles and 3,553 magnums were filled in September 2016.

The 2009 Itsas No. 7 is composed of 80% Hondarrabi Zuri and 20% Riesling aged on the lees for 12 months. It sports an alluring bouquet of green apple, peach, spring flowers, and mineral leading to a creamy, zesty wine with excellent balance and length. It will match nicely with spicy Asian dishes and cilantro-topped Mexican dishes. Drink it over the next 12-18 months to capture its freshness. Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; www.winebow.com