The 2004 Barolo Ornato is the most distinguished Ornato yet. This Barolo remains very primary and backward, yet there is a haunting inner perfume that occasionally makes an appearance here and that augurs very well for the wine’s future. The tannins are fine but also beautifully balanced by the wine's massive fruit. A recent tasting of Ornatos including the wines from the 1990s shows that the current lower levels of toast in the barrels is allowing more vintage and vineyard character to emerge in this wine, something that is a huge stride in the right direction. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. Proprietor Pio Boffa has fashioned some of the finest wines of his career with his 2004 Barbarescos and Barolos. These 2004s are remarkably open even at this early stage. When I asked Boffa if he thought the 2004s would shut down in bottle Boffa responded that it was unlikely because the wines would have already begun to clamp down at this stage if they were indeed headed for a stubborn period. Boffa continued to say he had never seen a vintage with such quality and quantity, echoing a refrain heard throughout Piedmont when discussing the 2004 vintage. Like so many producers, Boffa has backed off the French oak, a move that has benefitted his wines to a huge degree. Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Very pretty and focused, with lots of subtle aromas, from black cherry to freshly cut flowers. Full-bodied and powerful, with chewy tannins and a long, rich finish. All to come here. Best after 2011. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Ornato boasts the best of Barolo tradition and ushers forth all the seductive aromas we normally associate with Nebbiolo: spice, sweet chocolate, dried herbs, cured meats and mineral notes all make an appearance. This brightly luminous wine is bold and sophisticated with lingering tones of coffee, plum and prune. Drink after 2015.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 94