The 2003 Barolo Ornato, from a vineyard in Serralunga, is a big, brooding wine loaded with scorched earth, smoke, dark fruit and plenty of toasted oak. Made in full-bodied, super-ripe style, the wine possesses outstanding depth with a note of alcoholic warmth on the finish. While not the most subtle Barolo out there, this is a very strong effort from Pio Cesare. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2023. Pio Cesare is one of the region’s historic estates. The winery’s base Barolo and Barbarescos are made in a fairly traditional style while single-vineyard wines are decidedly more contemporary expressions. In the challenging 2003 vintage, the former, which are multi-commune blends, have turned out particularly well. Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Very beautiful aromas of berry, tar and rose follow through to a full-bodied palate, with fine tannins and a long finish of berry and vanilla. Very, very impressive. Polished and structured. Best after 2010. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add