The 2001 Barolo Ornato offers up an exciting melange of tar, licorice, mocha, smoke, plums and iron. The Ornato, which was so muscular when it was young, has developed into a much more graceful and finessed wine that I ever imagined. The French oak has integrated, while the fruit has become silky, fragrant and deeply expressive. Floral notes add brightness on the deep, textured finish. I especially like the way the Ornato just keeps getting better and better in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Inc., Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

The 2001 Barolo Ornato is this estate’s more modern-styled Barolo. It is a backward effort, packed with dark fruit, scorched earth, toasted oak and tar flavors that are typical of Serralunga, in a potent style, with excellent persistence on the palate and an attractive finish. It will drink well to age 20, and likely beyond. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021.Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Aromas of blackberries, licorice and berries follow through to a full-bodied palate, with lots of delicious plum fruit and toasted oak. Lovely finish. Very young. Very refined. Best after 2008. 900 cases made, 300 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

A creamy-textured, supple Barolo with strong oak overtones, it boasts aromas of coffee and vanilla layered over black cherries. It’s nicely balanced in terms of alcohol and acid, with a creamy mouthfeel and dried-spice notes on the finish. Give it a few years in the hope that the oak recedes over time. Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. ——J.C.(3/1/2006)—— 90