The spectacular 1997 Barolo Ornato (1,000 cases, produced only in the finest vintages), from a Serralunga vineyard planted next to Bruno Giacosa's famous parcel of Falletto di Serralunga, offers a terrific fragrance of raspberries, cherries, smoke, leather, and toasty oak. There are huge quantities of glycerin, a stupendous finish, and gorgeous purity as well as overall symmetry. This 1997 will require 2-4 years of cellaring, but will keep for 2-3 decades. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000

Youthful and racy. Dark ruby red. This shows loads of plum, berry and floral fruit character. Full, silky and very long. Just starting to open, but give it a little more time.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best after 2010. 1,050 cases made.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

A finely dense wine, with aromas of prunes, coffee and dried herbs. On the palate, the texture is almost velvety, with raisins and red plums. Certainly it leaves a dry aftertaste, but that is from the concentrated tannins. This is still a young wine, from a great vintage, but it promises well for long-term aging.——R.V.(11/15/2002)—— 90