The 1997 exhibits a dense ruby/purple color as well as scents of minerals, toasty new oak, blueberry, black raspberry, and currant fruit, and a full-bodied, impressively-endowed, highly-extracted personality. Gorgeously pure, with adequate underlying acidity, and a well-delineated, structured, muscular, and concentrated finish, this unevolved 1997 is accessible because of its wealth of fruit and suppleness. It should age gracefully for 10-20 years. ERIC SOLOMON, EUROPEAN CELLARS, 236 West 27 St., Room 801, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567