The 2007 Barolo Nei Cannubi is a dark, hulking wine of uncharacteristic power and richness. Waves of dark fruit completely cover the palate in a bold style that sits on the razor’s edge of overripeness. The due south facing Cannubi vineyard seems to have been somewhat penalized in 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. This is another strong set of new releases from Einaudi. This year I was particularly impressed with the Barolo Costa Grimaldi. These days the Baroli see 20-25 days on the skins. Malolactic fermentation starts in steel and finishes in French oak. The 2007s spent 16 months in French oak (30% new) followed by 14 months in 50-hectoliter casks. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

From one of Barolo’s most celebrated and historic estates, this elegant Cannubi expression offers toasted notes of hazelnut, vanilla, cherry and chocolate over a lean, streamlined mouthfeel. The intensity of this wine and its endurance on the palate is remarkable. ——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 93