I have had some doubts in the past about the very oaky version of Cannubi served up by the house, but could not be more pleased by 1999 Barolo Cannubi, where good sense seems to have dictated a more discrete use of the barrels. The spicy nose simply adds complexity to the very present floral and licorice aromas, and the sweet and round flavors are similarly varied, with chocolate and tar mingled with the mint, black cherry, and red currant notes. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020. Einaudi was founded by one of Italy’s major twentieth century statesmen, a highly considered economist by training and later president of the Italian republic. The wines, well made and characterful, deserve to be better known.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Toast and vanilla aromas and flavors suggest a certain amount of new oak, but there are also ample quantities of cherry- and citrus-tinged fruit. Full-boded, with a tannic finish. Drink 2010–2020. ——W.E.(4/2/2004)—— 90