The estate’s classy, elegant 2004 Barolo Nei Cannubi is even more promising. It reveals a richly concentrated personality with the compelling perfumed inner sweetness that is the hallmark of this great vineyard. The wine offers terrific energy and structure, with gorgeous, silky tannins that round out the sweet, lingering finish. The Cannubi was still in oak when I tasted it in mid-November 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2024. Consulting oenologist Beppe Caviola has been instrumental in ratcheting up the quality at this historic property. I can’t think of too many estates that have made such significant strides in just the last few years. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Rose and leather with a flash of toast and oak. Ripe black cherry flavours tempered by vanilla oak. Tight and tannic.