The 2000 Barolo Cannubi possesses notable density and intensity from start to finish. It shows more fruit and textural richness than the Costa Grimaldi, which is surprising given that the Cannubi often suffers more in warm years. This is another wine that has developed very nicely. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2020. Einaudi’s 2000 Baroli have held up well. The estate’s winemaking philosophy was a bit different this period. Fermentation and maceration lasted 15 days, quite a bit less than is the norm these days. The wines saw 70% new oak, the first year in barrique, the second in cask.

Elegant and supple upfront, then hits you with masses of rich, soft tannins on the finish that alleviate any initial concerns about ageability. Aromas and flavors run the gamut from earth and tobacco, to cherry and plum, to cedar and vanilla. Drink 2010–2020.——J.C.(11/15/2004)—— 91