The 2005 Barolo Nei Cannubi is the most complete of these offerings. The wine combines a powerful, dense expression of fruit that nearly manages to cover the potent tannins that lie beneath. This is a decidedly primary Barolo at this stage, although with air faint notes of sweet roses, mint and spices begin to emerge. The finish is long and powerful. There is superb balance of fruit, acidity and structure, but readers will have to let this wine rest for a few years before those elements can be fully appreciated. Einaudi harvested at Cannubi on October 10. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. This is another very strong set of wines from Einaudi and dashing proprietor Matteo Sardagna. Moderate yields, longer periods of skin contact, an increasing reliance on cask and lower amounts of new French oak are just some of the changes that have taken place as this historic property once again takes its place among the Piedmont’s top estates. In 2005 the Barolos spent a total of 3-4 weeks on the skins and were aged in a combination of small barrels and medium-sized casks. These dense, fruit-driven Barolos were among the most vibrant wines I encountered. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Poderi Luigi Einaudi consistently produces some of the world’s best Barolo and its Cannubi cru expression is particularly elegant and refined in the 2005 vintage. The wine boasts power and density backed by delicate aromas of wild raspberry, spice and drying mineral notes. It imparts a firm but smooth feel in the mouth.——M.L.(2/1/2010)—— 94