Even though production of the saturated opaque purple-colored 1996 Cote Rotie was only 30 hectoliters per hectare, the wine's acid is mouth-searingly high, which gives me pause for concern. However, it also possesses high extract levels and copious quantities of fruit. The knock-out aromatics consist of freshly ground pepper, licorice, black truffles, and cassis intermixed with smoked herbs and roasted game birds. Rich and chewy, but tangy from its high acidity, this wine requires 2-3 years of cellaring; it should keep for 15. The acidity will keep it fresh for many years, but will it ever be seductive? Importer: Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800