Held back for three years before release, Talbott’s Diamond T is an enormous wine. New smoky oak stands out, contributing caramel, creme brulee and buttered toast, but the underlying fruit is so powerful, it easily handles it. Prodigious in pineapples, peaches and apricots, with a hint of botrytis, this impressive Chardonnay is balanced with crisp, cool-climate acidity.——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 94