This has typical Talbottian heft, a gigantic Chard enormously rich in oak and munificent in flavor. Light pressing has captured the quintessence of cool-climate Chardonnay, heavenly rich and powerful, a flood of pineapple tart, Key lime pie, creme brulee, smoky meringue and vanilla cinnamon toast. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 96