From the orange, creamy buttermilk and earthy notes on the nose to the dry mineral, herb and Asian pear palate, there’s much to savor here—such as the balance, proportion and long, citrus-mineral finish. This is a complex and reserved wine, not a conventional, in-your-face bottling. It’s rather tight now, but if you give it two years (or more!), you’ll be well rewarded.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 91