The 2004 vintage produced a forward, fruity Cuvee J, sporting pretty scents of cherry cola. Light in color, it’s fresh, fruit-driven and carries a streak of vanilla from still-unresolved oak. If there is a quibble, it’s that the finish has some heat in it, and the fruit, though sweet and pretty, brings along no extra measure of extract or texture, things you look for in a top-end Pinot.——P.G.(7/1/2007)—— 87