The 1990 Pinot Noir-Cuvee J (made from a yeast cultured from the sediment in a bottle of Henri Jayer's red burgundy, hence the name) is another stunning wine. At present it is not as dramatic or flamboyant as the great 1989 Cuvee J, but it may turn out to be just as compelling. It reveals a deep color, and a tight but intense bouquet of sweet red and black fruits, spicy oak, and minerals as well as a floral component. The wine is dense, rich, and full-bodied, with good acidity, soft, abundant tannins, and a lusty, rich finish. I cannot help wondering if the Henri Jayer yeast is the cause for the extra aromatic and flavor dimensions in this impressive Pinot Noir?
Winemaker/proprietor Russ Raney continues to exhibit considerable talent with both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Virtually all of his wines go in the bottle unfiltered, which explains in part the rich, chewy texture and length Raney achieves.