The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is a wine that delivers many happy surprises. Given the estate’s location in the warmer, lower-altitude Camigliano area of the appellation, I had reasonably expected a flatter, less nuanced Brunello in 2009. Instead, Tenuta La Fuga’s latest release offers a plethora of interesting notes that span from white pepper to leather, to licorice, bacon fat and dried forest fruit. This estate shows a deft hand even in hot growing seasons. The wine boasts a modern style with that characteristic Sangiovese snappy acidity on the close. Drink: 2016-2022. Tenuta La Fuga is a gem of an estate owned today by Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari of Tenute Folonari. The group owns several estates throughout Tuscany, Chianti Classico and coastal Tuscany. Importer: Kobrand Corporation, www.kobrandwineandspirits.com