The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a big, strapping wine endowed with tons of ripe dark fruit, licorice, new leather, French oak and minerals. Today the wine comes across as somewhat backward and unexpressive, yet the fruit reveals superior density and richness that only needs some time to emerge. The wine’s balance and poise is evident even at this early stage. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Tenuta La Fuga is part of the Folonari group that encompasses various estates throughout Tuscany and Italy. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

Shows freshly sliced plum on the nose, with hints of mushroom and wood. Full-bodied, with firm tannins and a fruity berry aftertaste. A little tight still, but with balanced and refined tannins. Needs time. Best from 2011 through 2015. 3,000 cases made.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add