The 2006 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda reveals shades of the 1996 in its slightly lean, clenched personality. As it sits in the glass, the wine’s inner perfume and delineated fruit begin to emerge. This is a classic, vibrant Vigna Rionda that will require quite a bit of bottle age. It is a huge, promising Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2021-2036. This is a fabulous set of Baroli from brothers Roberto and Franco Massolino. The wines capture the essence of the vintage – while not being excessively marked by the year – in the house’s classic, firm style. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentations are done in cement and the wines are aged exclusively in large, neutral casks.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2006 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is young – very young. Currently the fruit remains quite primary and the aromatics have yet to develop. Still, it is impossible not to admire the wine’s structure and the sheer integrity of its fruit. I especially like the way the 2006 continues to open up as it sits in the glass. This is a hugely promising wine from the Massolino brothers, but readers will have to be patient. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. This is a beautiful set of 2008s from brothers Franco and Roberto Massolino. The 2008s here show the delicate, finessed side of the vintage. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

A fresh, bracing red, whose assertive structure sets the pace for pure floral, cherry, leather, underbrush, mint and tobacco flavors. This has an iron note, with muscular tannins and a long, long finish. Really shows the density of the vintage. Best from 2015 through 2028. 200 cases imported. –BS