Massolino's 1989 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is sweet, sensual and perfumed, with lovely inner fragrance. Whereas the 1990 is built on a solid core of fruit, the 1989 is decidedly more ethereal and elusive, with finessed, regal tannins that round out its impeccable balance. This has always been a magnificent, compelling Barolo as it is again today. Both Vigna Riondas from Massolino fully capture the essence of the respective vintages and are textbook examples from one of the world's finest vineyard sites. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.
The Massolino family has made wine since the late 1880s, although little documentation exists from that era. Up until the 1950s the estate farmed a variety of crops, which was the custom at the time, before focusing on wine in a more serious fashion in the 1960s. Today Massolino owns 23 hectares from which they make about 110,000 bottles, still very much artisanal in scale. These 1989 and 1990 Barolos capture a fascinating inflection point in Massolino's history, as they are the first wines proprietor Franco Massolino made upon his graduation from Alba's oenological school. Readers will note that some of these wines are labeled Riserva, while others are not. As was the custom during this era, bottles spent longer in producers- cellars than they typically do today, and over time some qualified for Riserva status. Of these Barolos, the only wines that saw extended time in oak and therefore are true Riservas with respect to aging in barrel are the 1989 and 1990 Vigna Riondas. Where applicable, I have indicated the -Riserva- designation for the estate's other Barolos in parentheses as a reminder that the Riserva and non-Riserva labels for these wines are the exact same wine, simply shipped at different times from the winery. With the exception of the Parafada (see below) Massolino's Barolos were vinified in cement. The malolactic fermentations also took place in cement, although during these years the estate began warming the cellar to induce the malos rather than allowing them to occur naturally as was customary at the time. The wines were then racked into cask where they completed their aging. The 1989s are fresher than the 1990s across the board at this address. Most of my experience with Massolino's older wines has been with the Vigna Rionda (see my vertical on www.erobertparker.com from a few years ago) so I wasn't fully prepared for how successful the other Barolos would be.
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